The Trans-Siberian
Railway is a 5,772-mile railway line connecting Russia’s capital city Moscow
with the port city of Vladivostok in the far east of the country. Spanning
eight time-zones, it takes a full seven days to complete the train journey from
Moscow to Vladivostok without stops. It remains today, the longest railway line
in the world.
Once hailed “the
fairest jewel in the crown of the Tsars”, people from all over the world have
embarked on this famous train journey and continue to do so. Perhaps, it is a
longing for times past, or perhaps it’s a curiosity towards a wonder of
engineering, a staggering symbol of man’s triumph over nature. One thing
remains certain - like no other, the Trans-Siberian merges a romantic notion of
travel with extraordinary landscapes and experiences into the journey of a
lifetime. To give you the ins and outs of this alluring adventure, we’ve teamed
up with Phebe Bay from The Travelling Squid, who shares learnings from her own
trip aboard the Trans-Siberian along with plenty of essential tips for when it
comes to planning.
A
symbol of hope and a common identity
While the
Trans-Siberian was built for a practical reason-a means of transporting goods
across Russia - it has become more than just a transport locomotive. Amidst the
harsh winters, Siberia is often associated with incredible beauty. The
Trans-Siberian offers those living in the small towns along the railway a
connection to the rest of Russia, the largest country in the world. It is a
symbol of hope, and, perhaps, a common identity. There are two other lines
which branch from the Trans-Siberian; the Trans-Manchurian and the
Trans-Mongolian. Instead of passing through Russian territory for the entire
journey, the Trans-Manchurian branches out to Chinese cities such as Harbin and
Changchun, while the Trans-Mongolian passes through Mongolian border towns and
Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia. If you are into dramatic changes in
scenery, from snow-covered hills to vast stretches of plains, take the
Trans-Mongolian route, which starts from Moscow, passes through Ulaanbaatar,
and then carries on to Beijing. The scenery from Russia to Mongolia and then on
to China changes drastically, making the train ride very interesting.
When
to go and how to plan an itinerary
Planning for a
Trans-Siberian trip can be a mind-boggling exercise as there are many aspects
to consider. One useful resource is website Seat 61, offering detailed
information and advice with regards to purchasing tickets and itinerary
planning.
Eastbound
or westbound?
The suggested
direction of the train would depend on whether you are planning to stay and
visit Moscow or Beijing after the train ride. There is a sense of romanticism
to traveling eastbound, as it is possible to get connecting trains from major
European cities into Moscow. Being the more popular route, you might be able to
meet like-minded travelers along the way.
Stops
along the way
A two-week trip is
sufficient if you are looking to make just one stop midway through the journey,
and spend some days in both Moscow and Beijing. A suggested stop midway would be
the Russian city of Irkutsk. It is the nearest city to view Lake Baikal, the
largest freshwater lake in the world. When you are there, be sure to try local
fish (omul) on sale at the nearby market, freshly caught from the lake.
Travelers are also encouraged to stop by Ulaanbaatar, should they wish to
experience nomadic life. From Ulaanbaatar, it is possible to get transportation
to the suburbs, for overnight stays in a Mongolian ger (traditional portable
home, which are round tents covered in animal skin or cloth for insulation).
Bring lots of warm clothing as it can get very cold at night.
Another stop on the
journey, Ulan-Ude is located 62 miles south-east of Lake Baikal and is the
capital city of the Republic of Buryatia, Russia. The most famous sight in the
city is the bronze statue featuring the head of Vladimir Lenin. It is said to
be the largest of its kind in the world. The architecture in Ulan-Ude is
generally interesting due to both Russian and Mongolian influences.
The
best time to visit
It depends on the
type of landscape and scenery you are looking for – a popular time to go would
be during the summer months between May and August. There will be a variety of
landscapes to look out for, such as the rolling hills of Mongolia and the
coniferous forests of Siberia. If you are into snow-covered winter landscapes,
visit during the winter months between November and February.
Now,
let’s get practical
-
Tickets
Booking tickets can
be a bit tricky. There is not one specific Trans-Siberian Express but many
domestic ones as well as a few international trains crossing the borders to
Mongolia and China. If you are planning to make a lot of stopovers, it might be
cheaper to book smaller but slower domestic trains on the route. If you,
however, are planning to spend a few days on the train there is an option of
taking the Rossiya from Moscow to Vladivostok - a more comfortable and quicker
train that only stops at bigger stations.Tickets are most affordable when
purchased through the Russian Railways official site. It takes a fair bit of
linguistic finesse, as most of the crucial information is in Russian, but, as
always, Google is there to help you. From Moscow to Irkutsk, it will cost
around $350 for a second-class berth – in a compartment of 4 sleeper berths.
Third-class tickets cost about $160, which is very affordable given the
three-day ride. Just note that the system only allows you to book seats 60 days
in advance. A caveat is that booking tickets via the Russian Railways site can
be a tad frustrating and certain credit cards are not accepted. Should you face
issues, you could consider booking the tickets through a travel agency. If
you’re pressed for time or are planning to make multiple stops along the way,
an online travel agency could also help make all the necessary bookings for
you. Do note that there will be a markup of about 15% – 20% on the price,
should you choose this option. Apart from Real Russia, Seat 61 recommends a
number of Russian online travel agencies - do check them out.
-
Budget
If you are on a
really tight budget, it is possible to spend less than $610 on the train ride,
if you go for third-class tickets and avoid dining at the restaurant car on the
train. Doing so means that you have to stock up your own food before the trip,
or hop off the train at major stops to purchase food before the train leaves.
Hot water is provided on the train. If you prefer more privacy and comfort, be
prepared to spend slightly more than $1000 on the train ride. Such a budget
gives you the option of visiting the restaurant cart from time to time, where
one meal can set you back $25 per person. There is a plus when you travel in
second-class, or the ‘compartment class’. The ticket is slightly more
expensive, but you get a compartment to yourself if you travel in groups of
four - great for privacy and security. Note that the Russian ruble is a
restricted currency, and it is not possible to get rubles outside of Russia.
But there are several exchange offices and ATMs at the Sheremetyevo International
Airport. It will be useful to bring some USD or EUR with you, as they are
readily accepted by major exchange offices. Small-denomination notes in these
currencies will be useful as contingencies.
-
Seat
selection
For seat selection,
it is suggested that you get both a lower and upper berth seat if you are
travelling in pairs. The lower berth seats are for resting during the day, and
you get a good view of the scenery outside. Should you get upper berth seats
only, you might have to ask for permission to sit on someone else’s lower berth
seat during the day. Most importantly, avoid selecting seats too close to the
toilet.
You
know why:
One of the main
reasons to go on this journey is the people you meet on your way. If you’re up
for a local experience, travel on third-class. That’s where you’ll find most
Russians, and, if you’re lucky, their children, who can be a breath of fresh
air on a journey this long. On the Mongolia to Beijing leg, you may meet
Chinese businessmen heading back to China from Ulaanbaatar. The train company
typically groups travellers together, increasing the chances of you meeting
like-minded folks.
-
Visas
A russian Tourist
visa is probably the most tricky of the three countries. Before applying for
one, you will need a visa support (tourist confirmation) letter. This is a
letter from a Russian travel agency or a hotel which has the license to invite
foreign tourists to Russia. Do note that this document is essential in the visa
application process. It is not the same as a hotel booking confirmation. Note
that some hotels may not be licensed to issue such documents. You can still
stay at these hotels, by getting a visa support (tourist confirmation) letter
from an online travel agency like Real Russia.
Chinese visas are
required for citizens of most nationalities including the UK. You can refer to
the Chinese visa guide for more information. For Mongolian visas, a visa is
required for UK citizens. Visit the Real Russia site to find out more on the
requirements by selecting your nationality.
-
Safety
It is generally
safe to travel on the Trans-Siberian. However, it’s advisable to travel in
pairs and to purchase a second-class ticket, which gets you a berth in a
compartment of four with doors that can be locked from the inside, for added
safety. Drinking does occur among passengers, but should you ever feel
uncomfortable, do not hesitate to inform the staff, who might be able to move
you to another compartment based on availability. You’re a smart traveler, but
just a reminder: always keep your valuable belongings right next to you when
you sleep.
Essentials
to bring on the train
The absolute
essentials for you to bring on the train ride would be toilet paper and wet
wipes. It is essential not just for hygiene purposes, but for wiping and
keeping the area around you clean after meals. Earplugs and an eye mask are a
must, should you happen to be sleeping near a crying baby (that happens), or
just feel like taking a nap in the middle of the day (that also happens).
The toilets are
basic and come with a sink. There is no soap available so you’ll have to bring
your own. Note that there are no shower facilities for the second and
third-class trains, in which case the wet wipes come in very handy. Also, bear in
mind that the train’s toilets are best used after a stop at a major station,
where they are cleaned. Remember, it’s all an adventure.
Second-class berths
come with bedding but do bring a sleeping bag if you prefer. Should you plan to
stock up on your own food on the train, remember to bring along a can opener
and a pair of scissors for opening food packages. There’s nothing worse than
being hungry and not able to open your food.
Of course, a good
camera is always a good idea when traveling. Additionally, bring along a
flashlight for the dark nights as well as an iPad and a good book for
entertainment.
Food
options
The restaurant car
changes at various legs of the trip. For instance, the restaurant car at the
Chinese leg serves simple Chinese food, such as steamed rice, cabbage, celery,
and chicken. Some quality trains, such as the Rossiya, offer tickets with or
without ‘services’. ‘With services’ just means that one or more cooked meals is
included in the price, either served in your compartment or eaten in the
restaurant car. Other meals you’ll need to pay for in the restaurant or bring
your own supplies.
The Russian
restaurant car serves a wider variety of food, such as fried potatoes, soup,
and dumplings. You can get snacks such as chocolate, potato chips, and instant
pasta, but that is sold at a premium. The bar sells beer and Russian vodka as
well, but the prices are steep, hence it may be a good idea to stock up on some
food of your own.
Some suggested food
to bring on board include snacks, tea/coffee bags, instant noodles, a loaf of
bread, and most importantly canned food. You may be surprised at how delicious
canned food can taste on the train. It bears some resemblance to a proper meal and
can be great spread on bread. Do remember to bring along disposable cutlery,
and a mug for hot tea on a cold night.
The
journey of a lifetime
From the rolling
Mongolian plains to the icy snow-capped peaks of Siberia, the Trans-Siberian
Railway offers a lot of promise. But the Trans-Siberian isn’t just about the
scenery. A large part of the journey is about living on the train-sleeping,
eating, reading, and, perhaps, dreaming of a hot shower and a home-cooked meal.
As the old saying goes, “Life is a journey, not a destination”. The
Trans-Siberian is a way of slowing down, enjoying the moment, taking a chance
on life and its unpredictability instead of rushing to the finish line. It is a
good way of getting to know the world around you, and an even better way to
learn about yourself. The Trans-Siberian is not for tourists or destination
seekers. But if you have an urge to go on an adventure, coupled with a thirst
for self-discovery, this is the trip for you.
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